While most indiginous groups assimilated completely to Catholocism with the coming of the Spanish, some groups, such as those from Chamula, held on to older traditions and customs effectively synthesizing the two religions.
The church from the outside looks ordinary enough, except maybe for the man at the door collectng a $3.00 fee to enter the church.
Passing through the church door is like passing through a portal in time. You can´t see anything at first, while your eyes adjust to the darkness. The heavy smell of frankenscence is thick in the air and a soft murmer, chanting almost, echos off the high gold painted celings of the church. And then you hear a sound so out of place that you can hardly believe it. Is that the squaking of a chicken? What the crap is a chicken doing in a church?
Photography is forbidden in the church and you are asked not to take photos of the people around town. The people believe photography can steal your soul. But I don´t think I will ever forget the place.
The church is absent of pews, people sit on the floor, which you can´t even see because it has been covered with a thick layer of pine needles, and stare off into space, as if looking for something on a distant hillside, and rythmically chant their prayers in thier native language like the beating of a Viking drum keeping the row in sync.
Beside the people are bags of chicken eggs, bottels of soda, and live chickens. Drink the soda to burp and release the evil spirits from the body. Rub the live chickens over your body to extract sickness or bad spirits. Pass the chicken over the flame of the candles and when you´re done with the chicken break its neck.
Chamula was a trip. Also my second visit, I was there three years ago.
But this time we took a horse to get there, from the city of San Cristobal de las Casas. Marissa has really good photos of me on my little horse, felt like a pony. I got a wicked sunburn and was sore for days afterward.
We are in Guatemala now, taking spanish classes in La Antigua Guatemala.
Click photo to englarge photo:
San Cristobal is a handsome city with a lot of indiginous flavor. At one time was controlled by Zapatista rebels, but now is a nice place to spend time. Lots of good food and live music everyday. Has a large international community living in town.
Main church in San Cris.
Photo from horseback. Apparently someone saw an image of the Virgin Mary in the rock so they built a church here.
Typical country hillside in Chiapas highlands.
1 comment:
how does it feel to rub a chicken over your body? was it live or dead? bad spirits go away!!!!!!
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